These pages show step by step
how I create my garments.
WARPING PROCESS PAGE 1

I
start with an idea for a garment. To design the fabric I envision,
I make choices about yarn, fabric structure, fabric density, and
fabric size. I work with a 16-harness, dobby loom. It is
60" wide. |

I want to make a velvety cloth, so I choose rayon
chenille as a yarn. This yarn is a woven fiber, and does not work
well as warp (the yarn strung on the loom). I need a yarn that is
strong and will allow the chenille to dominate. I use 20/2 mercerized
cotton. The chenille will be my weft (the yarn that is passed back
and forth to interlock with the warp threads).
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This
is a diagram of my woven design. It is called a drawdown.
The center colored area shows what the fabric will look like. The
upper part shows the threading of the warp. There are 16 rows,
each standing for one of the 16 harnesses on my loom. The right side
shows the sequence in which the harnesses will be raised. Each
black square is where a peg will be inserted on a bar on my dobby chain.
Each black square also represents a unit of four threads on both the top
and the right. The squares in the center therefore represent eight
threads. This structure is called polychrome summer and winter weave.
The design (pattern and color) is my own. The 20/2 cotton will be
almost completely covered up by the chenille.
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Since setting up the loom is so
time consuming, I put enough warp on to make 18- 20 garments. Each
garment will be unique because weft colors and the dobby chain can both
be changed as I weave. I figure out how
many warp threads I need, and wind spools accordingly. In this
warp, I have 28 threads per inch (epi). My loom beam has 2"
sections, so I wind 56 spools. |

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I thread a device called a tension box.
It will keep the threads in order, and put tension on the threads. |

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I set up the spool rack and tension box in perfect
alignment with the beam of my loom. I turn the warp beam crank 50
times for each 2" section. This will be enough warp for 18-20
garments. |
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All 1680 threads are now beamed. At 50 yards
length each, the total warp is 84,000 yards long!
Go to the next page to see more. |

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