Sewing Process pg2

THE DANCING BLANKET  Handweaver ~ Printmaker  Cynthia Motian McGuirl

P.O. Box 163  Two Fox Farm Drive  Thomaston, Maine 04861 USA (207)354-0929

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The sleeve-gusset unit has been sewn together with a 3/4" seam, and is being pressed.  The point of the iron is at the bottom of a flexible V where the gusset has been sewn to the sleeve. 

One side of the seam is graded.

At left, the ungraded seam side is pressed over the graded side.  At the point where the gusset meets the sleeve, I clip the seam (top right). The seam will be pressed in two different directions here. I add a drop of "Fray Check" (fabric     glue) to strengthen     the stress point.  

I grade the seam from where it was clipped to the edge of the fabric.  Then I press up the gusset side of the seam to cover the raw edges.

I sew these ironed edges, and also topstitch on the right side of the fabric.   The sleeve is a tube, so it is like sewing into a tunnel.  The gusset is tricky to sew, but it is what gives the garment its flattering shape.

The sleeve hem is pressed in place with the help of a hem gauge.  At upper right, I pound the bulky area where the sleeve seam is.  This tool is called a clapper, and it is great for flattening thick seams.  I use it wherever two seams come together.  The sleeve hem is stitched at right.

The sleeve-gusset unit is now complete.  Go to the next page to see how I sew the garment units together.

 

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Last modified: Febuary 15, 2008