After the loom is set up, weaving can
begin. This page shows the steps and tools involved. |
Loom Parts:
1.Tension
Arm 2.Warp Beam 3.Harnesses 4.Beater
and Reed 5.Shift Handle 6.Doublebox
Flyshuttle 7.Bench 8.Basket of Bobbins 9.Treadles
10.Cloth Advance 11.Cloth Storage Weight 12.Harnesses
13.Dobby Arm 14.Dobby Box and Fingers 15.Dobby
Chain of Bars and Pegs 16.Cloth Storage Roller 17.Harness
Cables 18.Warp Threads 19.Woven Cloth |
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The yarn that binds the warp together is called the
weft (rayon chenille here). It is wound onto bobbins at
left. At right, the bobbin has been placed in a shuttle which is
placed in the flybox.
This fabric uses two colors alternately in every row
of weft. Therefore, I use two shuttles and a doublebox flyshuttle.
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You can see the two levels of the flybox at
left. The attached cable lifts the proper box into place.
At right, another view of the flybox.
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At left, I step on the treadle which is attached to a
cable which pulls the dobby arm down (center photo). The pegs on
the dobby bar press into wooden fingers which are attached to the
harnesses by cables. At right, the corresponding harnesses lift,
creating an opening in the warp. This is called the shed.
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With the shed open, I pull the shift
handle to send the shuttle across. It comes out on the other side, and
goes into the left shuttlebox. |

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A closeup of the shuttle going across. |
I pull the beater towards me to push the
weft into place. When I step on the treadle again, it advances the
dobby chain to the next bar of pegs. A new set of harnesses rises,
and I send the second shuttle across. In this way, the warp and
weft threads interlock to produce fabric.
There
are 24 weft threads in each inch of fabric (called picks per inch). |

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When I have woven enough fabric for a garment, it can
be removed from the loom without affecting the rest of the warp. I
cut the fabric apart at the storage roller.
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I zigzag the ends of the fabric. I repair any
mistakes or knots with a tapestry needle and yarn. I baste the two
fabric ends together to form a tube of cloth. This will keep the
fabric from twisting around itself in the washing machine. I use a
handwash cycle. The fabric is dried in the dryer on very low
heat.
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The fabric will shrink about 8% in length and 20% in
width to form a soft, drapey cloth.
It is now ready to be cut and sewn.
Go to the next page to see the sewing process.
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