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The pattern for weaving is created by the sequence in which
the yarns are threaded on the loom. Harnesses (the wooden frame unit)
control groups of threads, heddles (the skinny silver things) control individual
threads.
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After beaming, I prepare the harnesses for
threading. All 16 harnesses come off the loom and have the exact
number of heddles put on. Every individual thread goes in its own
heddle. |
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The beam has been unrolled enough for lease sticks to
be inserted. Every thread goes alternately over one and under the
other. The tension box for beaming kept them in order when they
were put on the loom, and I inserted temporary ties to keep the order
until I put the lease sticks in. |
I have removed some loom parts so that I can sit right
in the loom to thread. I have the pattern written down so I can
thread the proper sequence. This step takes a lot of time and
concentration. I recheck my work often, as no mistakes are allowed
or the fabric will be flawed. |
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The threads are put through a reed (the blue and
metal item). The reed controls the density of the warp (28 ends
per inch here). The reed sits in the beater which presses the weft
yarns into the warp yarns. |
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| All the loom parts which were removed for
threading, are put back on the loom. An apron and rod, attached to
a storage roller at the back of the loom, are brought through a series
of rollers to the front of the loom where groups of threads are tied on
to the rod. They must be tied evenly and tight. |
This device is called the dobby
chain. It works much like a player piano. Each wooden bar
has pegs inserted to control the lifting of the harnesses. This
pattern uses 168 bars. |
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At left, the black arm is a tension weight, which
adjusts to control the tightness of the warp.
At right, I begin weaving.
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The completely set up loom.
To see the details of weaving, go to the next page. |
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